Basically… the Basic InstincT T-shirt pattern by Sasha Secondopiano is my go to T-shirt pattern – this is my third version!

Lilac Basic InstincT Tshirt by Pattern Scissors Cloth

Who knew I needed so many t-shirts all of a sudden? I confess I’ve never been much of a t-shirt wearer in the past, but these ones fit just so. I wear Sunny Stripes tons, and Here Comes Trouble occasionally for a bit of fun, and can you tell that this one is lived in too?!

Lilac Basic InstincT Tshirt by Pattern Scissors Cloth

And I’m feeling the love for nice comfortable cottons at the moment. This one is a textured lilac ‘gelati marle’ from Spotlight. They also had mint (snapped some up!) and some nice desert colours if that is your thing.

Warning: this stuff is off-grain! If you look carefully in the above photo you can see one side seam twisting towards the front. My usual strategy when cutting off grain knits is to let the cloth dictate – basically, cut according to the lengthwise grain and ignore the wonky crossgrain. However this knit has a textured slub along the crossgrain, which would look very obviously diagonal.

So I pulled and pressed, and pulled and pressed again, to try and straighten the grain. It helped a bit, but the fabric reverts back to default every time it is washed – then you need to repeat the process…

Lilac Basic InstincT Tshirt by Pattern Scissors Cloth

Apart from that, the fabric is lovely! Have you ever experienced off grain knits? What’s your favourite strategy for dealing with them?

Posted by

Designer, Patternmaker, Blogger Of All Things Sewing. Follow as I share projects, patterns, and my favourite tricks of the trade.

5 thoughts on “Basically…

  1. Nice T. I saw some crew neck t-shirts at Saba over the weekend and promptly went home and made an old Ottobre pattern I had. It turned out well but has a lower neckline and is more tight fitting. Will try Sasha’s pattern next. Thanks for the inspiration.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I’ve just spent the weekend sewing with off-grain knits with a stripe. I had to make the decision to not match my seams (this was against my better instincts) and just cut it out how it would lie flat. I’ve had spiralling t-shirts before and it drove me up the wall so I know better than to try the other way. Luckily I was using the fabric for toiles for workout pants which helped me get over that hurdle. Unfortunately knits that are off grain can’t be fixed; they will always go back to what they know best.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Have to be honest, I’m a bit wary of crew necks, they make generous chesticles look quite matronly. Strangely I don’t find that with a slightly wider more boat neck, the subtle difference is noticeable. Is it the twist in the yarn knitted into stretch knits that’s to blame? I sometimes split the difference between being 1/2 off grain but true to the drape so I have about half the twisty tee I would have otherwise had!! I don’t find twisty tees too annoying I guess. Gorgeous pattern on you this one.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I don’t really have a strategy for dealing with them, but so many Spotlight knits I’ve bought have been terribly off grain. It’s extra noticeable when they have a print that runs askew.


Have your say!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.