When I took my sewing machine in to get serviced before Christmas, the shop had a few back issues of Burda Style magazine discounted – so I bought one of each!
I do not need more things to make! I do not need more patterns! I make patterns for a living! I do not need to buy patterns! What is this irresistible allure I have to Burda Style magazine!? Why do I have to buy every single one I see?
One reason is they are quite hard to find at retail level in New Zealand. Unless you live or work near a book or sewing store that carries Burda Style, it would be hard to collect them all – you really need to subscribe if you want every single issue. So I like to buy them whenever I see them, partly to support the retailer for stocking them in the first place!
The second reason I snap them up whenever I see them is that they have real nostalgic value to me. Our family lived on a farm and the nearest pattern store was an hour and a half away, so browsing the pattern catalogues (at H&J Smith’s in Invercargill to be precise!) only happened occasionally. Once I discovered Burda, I could browse patterns anytime from the comfort of home, and I was free to dream about which of Mum’s fabrics I could cut up next 😉 Basically, Burda was my introduction to fashion design. Even now, a new magazine in my hands brings back the sense of excitement I had as a teenage girl!
Ok – by now you are probably wondering what this all has to do with the title ‘Tie Shoulder Tee’. Well, you’re correct if you guessed that I made a tie shoulder tee from one of those magazines! Number 101 from Burda Style 07/2019 to be precise.
I used a white viscose/elastane jersey knit that has been in my stash a long time. It was used for this tee too! I was seriously looking for the leftover fabric a while back to make something, and despite turning my workroom upside down I couldn’t find it anywhere. And what do you know it turned up the other day randomly. Just in time for this top!
I really like it, so simple and easy to wear, which seems to be the way I roll lately. I’d love one in black, and wouldn’t it look cute with the tie loop cut from striped grosgrain – or even leather?
I thought I would start giving sewing tips specific to commercial sewing patterns that I make. Sewing instructions can often be vague or somewhat bizarre, so hopefully my ideas might help someone in our sewing community!
My Sewing Tips for #101 Burda 07/2019
The neck and armhole edges on this top are turned under and twin needled. Burda recommend a 1.5cm allowance here, and I followed their instructions, pressing the allowance to the wrong side and stretching where necessary around the curves. I needed to force things quite a bit around the underarm curve, and I wasn’t sure this method was going to be successful at all!
I decided to twin needle at 1cm to ensure all allowances underneath were caught, and this gave me the flexibility to adjust/narrow the hem allowance slightly around curves for a smoother result.
Any protruding hem allowance was trimmed away. (As there is no problem with fraying in this fabric, I prefer to leave the edges raw to reduce bulk.)
Burda begin their instructions by sewing both shoulder seams. I rejigged the order of construction for what I think is a neater neckline finish:
- Sew/overlock R shoulder
- Twin needle neckline and R armhole
- Sew/overlock L shoulder
- Twin needle L armhole
- Sew/overlock side seams
There’s not much else to add for a simple top like this. It’s a super quickie or beginner project, as long as you have the hang of the twin needle. A classic with a twist as they say!