Midnight Lingerie Set

I’ve made a second bra, and this time added a pair of underpants to make a matching set. I’m really happy with how they both turned out, and they are so so comfortable!

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I used a midnight blue and black stretch lace, and some black silk satin. The stretch lace was actually salvaged from my rubbish bin at work! When I was cutting some samples last year I put the small scraps aside with a view to making some lingerie with them. I guess I’m lucky in that regard – but so is the lace as it would only have ended up as landfill! The black silk satin is crepe backed and heavier than a charmeuse, it has a gorgeous handle and is the same as I used to make my black Ruby Slip.

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The pattern used was the Orange Lingerie Boylston Bra. This was the same pattern as the first bra I made, I had the fit perfected and thought the satin would look nice on the straps.

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I wanted to utilise the 3-step zig-zag on these designs, and the straps were ideal for this. I also inserted a satin band in the side seam to squeeze even more zig-zags into the bra design. I’ve been deprived of zig-zag capability for so long I want ALL the zig-zags EVERYWHERE!

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The cups were lined with non-stretch bra tulle, the bridge lined with sheer cup lining, and the frame and band were lined with stretch tulle. The Boylston frame is designed for low-stretch fabric, but some of my ready to wear bras are lined here with stretch tulle, and it seems to work.

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For the trimmings I used 9mm plush backed picot elastic for the underarm and strap, 12mm plush backed underbust elastic, 12mm plush backed strap elastic, and a 2 row hook and eye set. All of these were sourced from Elle Joan’s Lingerie Findings, along with the non-stretch bra tulle and sheer cup lining.

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Now the underpants – I continued with my 3-step zig-zag EVERYWHERE theme:

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The pants are high waisted with princess seams and lace side panels, and I drafted the pattern from a swimwear block I made a very long time ago. They look rather huge but fit like a dream!

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The satin isn’t stretchy, just the lace, which was cut with the scalloped border to the leg opening. More zig-zags – I even zig-zagged the back crotch seam! I cut up an old T-shirt for the crotch lining that was slightly too thick, so the zig-zag flattened the seam nicely.

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It’s hard to make them look nice on a skirt mannequin! And I now have circle imprints on the back from my ironing board because I used steam – whoops!

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Bow = finished!

So – overall I am so happy with this set. It is really comfortable, and flattering, and used up some old fabrics so they cost me practically nothing – a sewing win!

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I'm a designer/patternmaker who loves to share my sewing knowledge with others! Follow me as I sew my personal projects, sharing my favourite tricks of the trade along the way.

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