The other day I was asked how I did the side split hem on my black stretch capris, and as quite a few of you liked this design feature I’ve done a quick tutorial. This is for you Liza Jane! It is a handy trick to know, because you can also use it on the hems of sleeves and tops too.
- your finished hemline
- depth of the split (mine was 4cm)
- hem allowance (this must be 1-2cm greater than the depth of the split, mine was about 6cm)
- one on the hem fold
- one above the hem fold and one below the hem fold, to mark the depth of the split, ie 4cm
Sew the side seam, but leave it open between the upper and lower notches, backtacking at the ends of your stitching:
Press the seam allowances open either side of the notches…
Now reach into the hem and pinch together the seam allowances inside, and pull them out ready to sew them together:
You should have one seam allowance folded at the hem notch with right sides together. Ensure the hem notch is on the foldline, and the split notches match:
Turn this side of the split through, and repeat for the other side:
If you’ve done everything accurately, both sides of the split should be the same length (if you look closely at the very first photo, mine is about 1mm out!).
This is the inside:
And this is the outside:
Now you sew the hem as per normal – I machined the hem on my trousers, but you can do it by hand for a more tailored look.