During the RTW Tailoring Sewalong I started suffering from “jacketitis”, and the only cure for this is to make something completely random and unplanned, so I whipped up these trousers from stash. “Whip up” being a bit of a lie, as they had six pockets – two of them requiring
unpicking precision stitching!
Plus the fit in the rise and the legs wasn’t right on me – I fussed and fiddled forever trying to get them to be as I imagined, all the while thinking: “I am not moving those pockets”, until I gave up with a stiff neck from trying to look at my behind in the mirror, and returned to my coat thinking it was far easier!
A couple of weeks passed…..
Until the other day I got stuck in and sorted them out once and for all, and here they go – ta-dah!:
The pattern is #131 Trousers from Burdastyle May 2010 – the link is here, and you might recognise them from this magazine picture:
Because the model is walking they look a lot slimmer in the thigh than they actually are – I had to narrow mine considerably to get them to how I envisaged. I also lowered the back rise and back waistline 1cm to better fit my shape. The front rise angle is slightly wrong on me too, but I think I can live with it – with the zip and pockets done it is
awkward impossible to change! I taped the waist to prevent it stretching, but even so the front waist might need taking in slightly – which is unheard of for me as I usually have to let the waist out!
I used some polyester suiting from stash that is probably a nice quality as far as polyester goes. For some reason I have a roll of about 15m of this stuff – these trousers used up approximately 1/10th of that, hardly stash-busting!
Burda recommend using poplin for this pattern but my fabric was thicker than that. I wouldn’t want to use anything thicker though as the bellows pockets would get too bulky. The tabs were turning out a bit thick and difficult to make neat, so I substituted them for some nice grosgrain ribbon and I’m really happy with the texture contrast they provide. Raiding the stash further I found D-rings in the perfect size, so it was meant to be!
I really like the details on these trousers – the belt loops, the back flaps, and especially the positioning of the cargo pockets – you’d think pockets right on the hips would be real unflattering, but they don’t feel like that at all. Maybe I should have buttonholed the back flaps, that button looks a bit lonely:
The invisible zips at the cuff are a bit of a waste of time as they are, well, invisible. They’re unnecessary for getting the trousers on and off unless you have particularly large shoes, and because the zip pull flops down they serve more as an advertisement for YKK than anything!
(Not that I mind advertising YKK – I recommend their invisible zips highly. In this post I was surprised to hear so many reports of invisible zips failing, and I have to mention that I have never had this problem with YKK zips – despite making a lot of close fitting garments!
I did have an issue once using another brand – on a style where I ordered only one colour in the other brand because it was a better match – and most of the tops in that colourway were returned by disappointed and embarrassed customers because the zip had failed – I was not happy! All the other colourways were fine – funnily enough, the ones with YKK zips.)
Back to the trousers: next time I will probably use a fancy zip pull or an exposed zip instead. And there could be a next time – I love these trousers and they are very ‘me’. They combine a touch of cargo casual with a touch of city chic – hence the moniker City Cargoes!
PS – while I was photographing these out in the garden our resident Tui made a noisy appearance, and I managed to capture him on pixels for you – doesn’t he look smart with his feathery bow tie?