Just a few more easy steps and my Anzac coat will soon be finished!
Normally I would leave the lining hem free in a coat, but for demonstration purposes I’ll show you how to bag it out – that is, where all edges are enclosed.
Your facing at the hem should look something like this – or it may be curved at the front edge, in which case the lowermost part of the curve will already be stitched:
Either way, the lining edge of the facing overlaps the start of the hem allowance by 2cm. The lower edge of my facing looks really messy because I cut this coat out of remnants – I’m sure yours will be a lot neater!
Turn the facing so the right sides are together:
And sew across the bottom edge to the point where the lining joins:
Now my method is a bit different to way this corner is normally sewn, I picked it up at an old workplace and have done it that way ever since. It has a nice smooth finish, as well as being quick and production friendly!
With the needle down, swing the lining so both hem edges match at the next seam:
It looks a bit weird, and there could be a bit of wiggling to make it fit, but it will look fine once it is turned (remember – your pattern matched, so your sewing will too!)
Sew the rest of the hem, but somewhere in the middle leave a 20cm gap for turning everything through – I left mine open at the CB panel:
Continue to the other side, sewing the hem around the facing in the same manner, but in reverse.
At the moment your jacket is completely inside out, with just two openings – the one at the hem, and the one in the sleeve lining. Before you turn the jacket through, tack up the hem allowances at every seam:
Now turn the coat right side out through the hem opening:
Here’s how to close the hem opening by machine – reach into the sleeve that has the lining open, and put your hand through the opening so it is between the lining and sleeve shell, and reach through the armhole right down to the hem:
Grab the hem and pull it back through the path that your hand travelled – pull enough of the hem out through the sleeve lining opening so that you can sew it:
Once you have sewn it, let it fall back through the opening into place. The next step is to attach the lining and shell underarms together, just like we did in #14:
The final step is to close the sleeve lining. I usually leave this until everything has a final press just in case I have to go back inside. In fact, the other day I noticed a jacket in my wardrobe that still hasn’t been closed up!
To enclose everything, fold the seam allowances inwards and butt the edges together (remember how we pressed them to make this easier back in #8), then edgestitch the opening closed:
That’s it – all the sewing is done – all that is left to do are the buttons and buttonholes!
I just ordered some antique brass military style buttons on Friday, so hopefully I’ll receive them this week – it’s coat weather here now and I need my coat!