Today is the day we make the lining for our jacket. I’ve noticed a lot of patterns don’t even have linings, or only the front is lined, so knowing how to make a full lining is a really useful thing to know. Let’s get straight into it…
- Trace around your Back pattern, include markings:
- Trace the Back Neck Facing, and add 2cm to this line for seam allowances (red):
- If your Back is cut on the fold like mine is, add a 1cm CB seam (red). If your Back has a CB seam already – great!
- Add an extra 2cm to the CB as shown, from just below the waistline upwards – this is the allowance for a CB pleat which will be incorporated into the seam:
- At the hem, the lining cut line is the same as the hem foldline:
- Cut out your lining, notch the CB neck, and label it – back lining, cut 1 pair, grainline:
- Rescue the piece that was off-cut when you made the Front Facing:
- Add to the finished hem length where it will join the Front Facing, so their lengths match:
- On my piece I closed out the dart:
- Normally I would proceed to slash and spread and add some ease to the lining/facing seam, but because my coat is double breasted and this piece is so skinny and ridiculous looking, I will merge it with the Side Front Lining instead:
- I stuck them together, overlapping the side front seam allowance 2cm. I slashed horizontally in a couple of places to get it to fit. At each slash the pattern overlapped about 5mm along the seam edge – I need to recover this or the lining will be too short for the facing.
- At the same time I also need to slash and spread to include some ease in the lining along this seam, so I do both at once:
- The ease will be distributed 5mm between the shoulder and first notch at the bust, and 5mm between first and second notch at waist.
- Now you need to add the seam allowance to the seam, not forgetting to walk your pattern and checking the ease between the notches:
- And I levelled the hem because we don’t want a kinky hem, you can place a notch there to match the side front seam of the shell if you are bagging out:
- The finished pieces:
- For a one-piece sleeve lining trace around the Sleeve pattern, and mark the lining hem cut line. As these two edges will be sewn together, they must be the same length, so taper the lower 2cm of the lining out to match (red):
- At the underarm, mark a line 2cm above the edge (red):
- Please excuse the condition of my pattern piece – the cat came inside with muddy feet and decided my sleeve pattern was the place to be! With your sleeve aligned on top, pivot it from the sleeve shoulder notch to meet the 2cm mark:
- Trace around this edge, then pivot the sleeve at the underarm to bring the sleeve seams into alignment at the wrist:
- Repeat for the other side. The elbow notches will actually remain at the same level as those on the shell, not where I have marked them in red:
Top and Under Sleeve Linings:
If you have a two-piece sleeve, the process is essentially the same – add 2cm to the underarm, and pivot the sleeves to this level, adding to the foreseam as necessary. Remember to walk the foreseam:
That’s it – your lining and complete pattern is done!
…except for the pockets – which I’ll cover another day…
Soon we will be cutting, so sharpen those shears!