The under collar on a tailored jacket usually has a CB seam and is cut on the bias so that it rolls smoothly without breaking. If your under collar is cut on the fold it is easy to change – just add a CB seam allowance, and redraw the grainline 45 degrees to CB seam:
Once again, give your pattern 1cm seam allowances and walk the pattern around the neckline to ensure it fits.
Label – Under Collar, Cut 1 Pair, Blockfuse, Grainline:
The Top Collar is made from the Under Collar. Fold some paper, place the CB seam to the fold, and trace around the Under Collar:
Your existing pattern may or may not have cloth allowance added, but you’ll definitely need to add some to the outer edges of your top collar. The amount added depends on the thickness of your cloth – you’ll need less for a fine wool, and more for a thick coating, about 3-4mm is average. There’s more info on cloth allowance here.
Ive added 7mm to the CB, tapering to 4mm at the collar point, and to zero at the lapel junction. Here’s my finished collar pieces:
The Front Facing is made from the Front – trace around it and draw in the line of the facing, you can use your pattern as a guide. The line should be square at the shoulder seam and hem. Now add 1cm seam allowance to this edge:
We need to add cloth allowance to the lapel edges. From the lapel point, add to the upper edge, tapering to the collar notch. Give this line a slight convex bend – this prevents what I call ‘scoopy lapel’ – which is not a good look.
Below the break point, cloth allowance is removed all the way down to the hem. If your front hem edge is curved, remove it right around the curve – as in the example in the cloth allowance post.
Back to the Front for a minute:
Now we have established the width of the facing, we can cut away the front hem allowance where the facing bags out. Mark the facing width, less 2cm seam allowance. From the finished hem foldline, add 1cm seam allowance (no extra 6mm here), and cut away the rectangle:
Back Neck Facing:
You will need a Back Neck Facing if you don’t already have one, and it is easily made from the Back.
Fold some paper, and place the CB fold line to the fold and trace around the upper Back. If there is a CB seam, place the CB stitching line to the fold:
Draw finished line of Back Neck Facing (pencil), and add a 1cm lining seam allowance (blue pen):
The curve should be square to the shoulder seam and CB seam. The facing should be the same width as the front facing at the shoulder seam:
Cut through both layers and open it out. Notch CB neckline and lower edge, and label – cut 1, blockfuse, grainline:
- Side Front or Side Body
- Front Facing
- Back Neck Facing
- Under Collar
- Top Collar
- Pocket Welts and Flaps
- Back (Back Hem Fusing)
- Side Back (Side Back Hem Fusing
- Top Sleeve (Top Sleeve Hem Fusing)
- Under Sleeve (Under Sleeve Hem Fusing)
- Under Collar (Stand Fusing)
Back Hem Fusing:
Trace around back hem area and mark hem foldline. Mark 2cm above hem foldline, and 5mm inside all other edges:
Cut out fusing pattern and label – Cut I pair if you have a CB seam, Cut 1 if you have no CB seam, grainline same as back:
Side Back Hem Fusing:
Sleeve Hem Fusings:
If you have a one-piece sleeve, make the sleeve hem fusing in the same way:
Under Collar Stand Fusing:
Mark roll line on under collar, it must run into the roll line of the lapel (a dress stand helps to model the collar, you can see where mine has been folded)
Have you made it this far? I hope so! It all sounds so long-winded in words, but put into practise this doesn’t really take long – a few minutes for each piece, if that. And the time taken will repay itself when it comes to cutting and assembly – I promise!
Tomorrow we tackle the linings…