Guess what – there are only three more steps to complete our jackets – sew in the lining, bag out the hem, and do the buttons and buttonholes – we’re almost there!
Don’t you love how quickly our garments are coming together? I can only estimate my sewing time because I’m always stopping to take photos, but my coat has come together in about 3 hours so far, with about half an hour to go – but I better not speak too soon! I know the time spent editing the pattern at the beginning really speeds up the jacket-making process for me – are you all finding the same thing?
Let’s get that lining sewn in:
Start at the hem – by sewing the front lining to the front facing:
Sew up the front edges, right around the back neck facing, and down to the hem on the other side – matching all notches and seams:
There will be some easing of the lining to do, and it is usually easy enough to sew in while the lining is on top – if not, switch so the lining is on the bottom and let the feed dogs do the work!
To sew the sleeve hems, tuck the sleeve linings down the sleeves, and slide your hand into the sleeve that has the lining fully closed, and make sure it is not twisted and that the seams align:
At the seam, turn the hems inwards and pinch the lining and sleeve forearm seams right sides together with your fingers near the sleeve hem:
Still holding them tightly together, with your other hand reach in between the lining and coat body at the hem, through the armhole, to the sleeve hem. Pinch the forearm seams together with your other hand, then pull the cuff out through the armhole and the hem – the right sides will face together. Whatever you do, don’t let go!
Line both hems up perfectly and then they are ready to sew:
Sew right around the cuff using a 1cm seam:
If you are sewing a two-piece sleeve, check out this tutorial if you haven’t already.
Before turning the sleeve back through, the hem needs to be tacked up at the seam allowances. See the hem notches:
Fold the hem at that point:
and stitch the opposing seam allowances together for 1-2cm:
Now you can turn the sleeve through, and the hem folds automatically in place because of the hem tack. If you are sewing a one piece sleeve with a single seam, some additional catchstitching might be required by hand:
The next step is to attach the lining to the armhole, this is done at both the shoulder seam and underarm.
Reach in between the lining and coat body up to the shoulder, and pinch both sleeve seams together at the shoulder point:
Still holding them together, draw them out through the hem:
Cut a 4cm piece of cotton tape, and sew it to the sleeve seam allowance at the shoulder seam of the coat body:
and sew the other end to the seam allowance of the lining – this forms a 2cm link between the two layers:
Now reach in and pinch the lining and body underarms together and draw them out through the hem:
Lay the seam allowances of the lower armhole together, with the side seams of the body facing the side seams of the lining:
Stitch the underarm seam allowances together about 5cm either side of the side seams – you can probably just see my stitching here adjacent to the actual seam:
Turn through – your lining armhole is now attached firmly to the inside:
That’s the first sleeve done. For the other sleeve (that still has one lining seam left open) repeat the above steps, but it is easier if you don’t attach the lining to the underarm until after the next step. This next step is bagging out the hem, and this is detailed in the next post.