Guess what – there are only three more steps to complete our jackets – sew in the lining, bag out the hem, and do the buttons and buttonholes – we’re almost there!
Don’t you love how quickly our garments are coming together? I can only estimate my sewing time because I’m always stopping to take photos, but my coat has come together in about 3 hours so far, with about half an hour to go – but I better not speak too soon! I know the time spent editing the pattern at the beginning really speeds up the jacket-making process for me – are you all finding the same thing?
Let’s get that lining sewn in:
Start at the hem – by sewing the front lining to the front facing:
|Excuse the exposed fusing at the hem. Remember how I was short of cloth? Well, that’s my seam allowance!|
Sew right around the back neck facing, and down the the hem on the other side – matching all notches and seams:
There will be some easing of the lining to do, and it is usually easy enough to sew in while the lining is on top – if not, switch so the lining is on the bottom and let the feed dogs do the work!
Tuck the sleeve linings down the sleeves, and slide your hand into the sleeve that has the lining closed, and make sure it is not twisted and that the seams align:
and pinch the lining and shell forearm seams together with your fingers near the sleeve hem:
Still holding them tightly together, with your other hand reach in between the lining and shell at the hem, through the armhole, to the sleeve hem. Pinch the forearm seams together with your other hand, then pull the cuff out through the armhole and the hem – the right sides will face together:
Line the sleeve lining hem and sleeve hem up and they are ready to sew:
Sew right around the cuff using a 1cm seam:
If you are sewing a two-piece sleeve, check out this tutorial if you haven’t already.
Before turning the sleeve back through, tack the hem up at the seam allowances. See the hem notches:
Fold the hem at that point:
and stitch the opposing seam allowances together for 1-2cm:
Now you can turn the sleeve through, and the hem lies automatically in place, although being a one piece sleeve with only one seam, some additional catching will be required by hand:
The next step is to attach the lining to the armhole at the shoulder seam and underarm.
Reach in between the lining and shell up to the shoulder, and pinch the sleeve seam allowances together at the shoulder point:
Still holding them together, draw them out the bottom:
Cut a 4cm piece of cotton tape, and sew it to the sleeve seam allowance at the shoulder seam of the shell:
and sew the other end to the seam allowance of the lining – there will be a 2cm link between the two layers:
Now reach in and pinch the lining and shell underarms together and draw them out through the hem:
Lay the seam allowances of the lower armhole together, with the side seams of the shell facing the side seams of the lining:
Stitch the seam allowances together about 5cm either side of the side seams – you can probably just see my stitching here adjacent to the actual seam:
Turn through – your lining armhole is attached firmly to the inside:
For the sleeve with the lining seam left open, attach the lining to the cuff, and then the lining to the shoulder point. It is easier if you leave attaching the lining to the underarm until after the next step – bagging out the hem – which is tomorrow!
That’s it for today – how are your garments progressing – is everything going to plan? I know many of you are working at a slower pace, and that’s OK – the posts will remain, and I’m still here to answer questions if you ask them!
But some of you have already finished – Steph, Dana, Jackie!! Check out the links in the side bar to participants blogs and our Flickr group for their fab pictures!