~tricks of the trade: a shift dress lining pattern

How often do you buy a dress pattern, vintage or modern, and wish it had a lining?  I love to line my dresses – they sit more smoothly on the body and the fabric holds its shape better, plus it just looks and feels nice from the inside! My sixties shift dress that I sewed […]

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Get Smart with Darts!

The dress I am making at the moment, Butterick 2669, has one of each of the main dart types. So time for more tricks of the trade – about darts!  Our flat pattern and fabric are only two dimensional, but with darts we introduce a third dimension so garments fit our body curves better. Dart […]

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bust darts – up or down?

How do you prefer to press side bust darts – do you press them upwards, or do you press them down? I was taught to press them upwards, the theory being they were less noticeable from the outside. I don’t usually sew commercial patterns, but I notice the vintage ones I’ve sewn recently all indicate to press […]

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everyone needs a white tank top, + binding tips!

I can’t do without tank tops during summer, and since it is almost here I thought I would try and replicate my much-loved racer-back tanks from Max – that are now limp, faded and strictly relegated to the painting and decorating wardrobe! Plus, can you believe I don’t actually have any white tops?! I used my knit top block […]

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~trench coat: collar draft~

Yesterday I managed to get my trenchcoat cut and fused.  There are so many bits and pieces!  I almost completely forgot the epaulettes and the belt – luckily there was still a piece long enough to cut it in one piece.  I thought I had plenty of cloth, but there is practically none leftover.  Plus there is […]

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