A pair of wide leg cropped jeans has been on my to-do list for a while, and finally I can tick that box. Well almost – my original plan was to give this denim a distressed finish, but that goes against my gut instinct to attack these with sandpaper and stuff when I spent so much of my weekend making them!
I based the pattern on these trousers, adding more flare and cropping them to get the desired silhouette. Then it was simply a matter of adding all the details – fly front, patch pockets, waistband. The initial plan was for back welt pockets but I soon back pedalled on that idea due to the distressing idea. In the end I couldn’t decide, and before I knew it the trousers were made with no back pockets at all! I topstitched the darts to give some back detail though.
The size has turned out a little large, about half a size. I am hoping that they will shrink in a good hot wash!
The denim was purchased from Centrepoint Fabrics a couple of years ago, always with the intention to make this style. It contains some elastane, but unfortunately also contains something fake that I suspect is polyester. I always check the labelling and prefer natural fibres where possible, so I’m surprised I bought this fabric unless it was labelled wrong (or maybe not at all?)
Cutting was an absolute breeze though! I work a lot with flimsy fabrics, so to lay up and mark this denim only felt like it took a couple of minutes in comparison.
All seams were sewn on my industrial machine, and topstitching was done on my Pfaff Passport 3. The last time I topstitched with heavyweight thread on my industrial I had some tension problems (it does need a service…) and I have to say my baby Pfaff handled it very well.
I used a heavyweight thread for topstitching (Amann Saba Nr 30, Col 1120) with my usual thread in the bobbin (Amann Saba Nr 120), and loosened the top tension a couple of notches. My machine sewed all that topstitching very nicely except a small blip at the CB waistband – if I had my own labels I could cover it up! In a couple of instances where I backtacked the top thread pulled to the back a bit and caused a mini birds nest, but otherwise I was very happy with the way the Pfaff Passport handled things – it had such great piercing power through the thicker denim layers, and handled the bumpy ups and downs of varying thicknesses really well.
The first test buttonhole went really well, but there were a couple of buttonholes where the cycle did not complete. I think the buttonhole foot got caught on the different layers of the fly? Not sure really (I’m a buttonhole newbie on domestic machines) but at least with heavyweight thread they were easy to rip out and re-do. One is still a little wonky but the button covers it well, so don’t tell anyone OK?!
The buttons were sourced from Geoff’s Emporium. I already had some for another project and knew they were The Ones! But when I got there I could not find them, or anything else suitable and I was just about to give up after a panicked five minutes of looking when I spotted them. Hiding. Right in front of my nose all the time!
I also bought a few other things of course. If you’ve ever been to Geoff’s you will understand that this is a natural occurrence ;).
So that is my ‘jeans’ in their original state. I think I will wear them like this for a while and when the gloss of all that work topstitching wears off I will be ready to attack them with grit and chemicals. What do you think – all shiny and new, or shipwrecked?