I’m so short of tops to wear to work at the moment – you know the situation, when you have clothes but nothing seems to look right together. Lately I’ve been feeling the need for more cropped tops to co-ordinate with high waisted bottoms, and when Carolyn recently posted a similar styled top she made for Cassie, I decided I better stop thinking and start doing!
I cut this top out of a remnant – for one who likes a challenge this can be one of the most satisfying things! Especially when said remnant cost $2 for “under a metre + scrap” haha!
Being a geometric-anything fan I kind of liked this viscose print so snapped it up – at that price why wouldn’t you?
I’ve always wanted to make a kimono sleeve gusset like the one in this totally unnecessary cocktail dress from way back. I’ve never actually drafted one before for ready-to-wear because they’re not very production friendly, but the other night I put my head down and made this top as a result. I love the neat fit and the sharp angle the gusset gives to the underarm:
The top itself is pretty basic – boxy with a french dart at the front, and an invisible zip at the CB neck. The zip I had was longer than necessary so I chopped it off and bound the cut edge with self-fabric:
I’m very happy with how the gussets turned out. Because you have to clip into the corner, I was a bit worried about them fraying in the wash – especially in viscose!
The gusset panel extends the length of the sleeve, with a triangular inset into the side seam
The inside view probably demonstrates the ‘house’ shape better, although upside down:
To stop fraying I fused each corner to be clipped with a scrap of fusing. This was fused to the area around the apex before clipping and sewing:
Once the gusset was sewn, I stitched along the raw edges of the clipped area, attaching the two seam allowances together to give extra reinforcement:
After stitching, I gave each corner of the gusset a stress test by pulling on it – I would rather the seam gave way now, than one day while wearing it! Luckily all corners held together, and are actually quite strong thanks to the fusetape.
I cut the top slightly longer than I wanted to allow for some future shrinkage (hi viscose…). I actually like the current length with my jeans, but with a midi skirt that I’d quite like to wear it with, it needs another inch off. Proportions are a funny thing!
(That obviously means I need another one – right?!)
What’s your go-to style to make from a remnant? And have you ever attempted kimono sleeve gussets? When I sewed the Totally Unnecessary Cocktail Dress I wrote a tutorial which could be helpful if you are planning on sewing them anytime soon, although I sewed this top using a simpler method (without organza squares).