If you are sewing the Ruby Slip and would like to use a narrower lace on the bodice – here’s how! I’ll show you how to adapt the bodice pattern pieces, and also how to convert the princess seam into gathers under the bust – like this one that I whipped up in honey coloured silk satin:
Before you jump into altering the pattern though, check out Chris’s brilliant solution for using a slightly narrower lace at Cuada Designs – it might be ideal for your lace too!
Adapting the pattern for a narrow lace:
Start by tracing around your bodice pattern pieces:
Rule a line parallel to the centre front neckline, preferably intersecting the underbust seam at the CF:
Add 1cm seam allowance and cut it out:
|While you are here, add a grainline to the lower front, parallel to the CF line|
|The dot is where the stitching lines intersect|
Redraw the new line, and cut out the upper Side Front piece:
|This new line will be the widest part, so the lace needs to be this wide.|
Repeat for the back, once again checking the side seams match:
|A small adjustment was necessary here.|
To make the lower bodice parts, cut around the remaining pieces, and trace them out again:
Then add 2cm seam allowances to the upper edge (that is, 1cm seam allowance plus 1cm that was removed from them before):
|Add some grainlines too!|
Here are the final pattern pieces:
And the cut lace pieces – I ended up sewing a CF seam rather than an overlap because I thought it looked better:
|CB and CF marked with arrows|
Adapting the pattern for underbust gathers:
|Draw a guideline 2cm from the cutting line to help you line them up accurately|
Draw a smooth curve to join the lower edges:
Mark the original dart legs, 1cm in from the old cutting lines:
|Mine are 6cm apart, make a note of this amount|
Smooth the curve at the upper edge too:
Divide the 6cm-or-whatever-your-number-is into two, and mark this either side of the original dart legs:
My total of 12cm will be gathered to 6cm:
|Mark the grainline and notches too!|
Sewing it all together:
Sew the Back Lace to the Lower Back, overlock, then sew the side seams:
I egdestitched the seam allowances between the lace and satin down so they would stay nice and flat.
I also decided a CF seam looked better than an overlap – I sewed along the CF line, trimmed the excess seam allowances to 5mm and edgestitched them open.
Sew a couple of rows of gathering stitches between the notches:
|Hint 1: sew the gathering stitches 1cm past the notches so you can gather right up to the notch.
Hint 2: Backstitch at one end so the gathering threads co-operate!
|Cut two 1cm wide strips, the length of the finished gathers plus 2cm for either side – mine were 10cm total
On the raw edge, notch 2cm from either end.
Sew the strips to the wrong side of the gathers matching the notches, and distributing the gathers evenly:
I tapered the end 2cm of the tape towards the edge like this:
|When sewing this part to the skirt, the centre of the gathers (marked with a pin) will match the skirt notch|
Overlocking neatens it all up on the inside: