|I used a polyester crepe backed satin for this version, and it has sewn up really nice on the bias.
(You might notice the bodice is larger on this version, I have altered the pattern since.)
Now (unless you are still planning your layout) you can go ahead and cut this piece out:
At the point on the scalloped edge where the stitching lines meet, we need to match the lace pattern. On the Centre Front Bodice this point was placed at the inner corner of a scallop, so the Side Front Bodice stitching line is placed at the same part of the scallop:
Once this is done you can cut this panel out. I’ve laid mine together here as they will be sewn – now we are starting to see how it will look:
It is important to stop here and check where the Centre Back is located. Whoops – it is not quite centred on a scallop here! This is a good reason to run through the layout briefly beforehand – so you can plan the best outcome.
I choose to centre the Centre Back Line over the nearest scallop:
The side seams still match closely enough – this is the least important join as it is under the arm, the Centre Back takes priority:
I cut half the back piece, then fold it along the Centre Back line – ensuring the scallops align perfectly – then cut the remainder. Even though your pattern has a full back piece, I still recommend doing this.
Check your cutting by laying your pieces together as they will be sewn. My side seam scallop is slightly smaller, but the run is smooth:
Now for the opposite Side Front Bodice. Lay the one you have already cut face down on the lace, ie right sides together so that you have a pair. Arrange the top piece so the pattern matches along all edges:
Every lace is different – notice I am using the opposite edge of the lace to get a perfect mirror image. If you are unable to do this just match the scallops. Notice also how some lace is wasted because of the large pattern repeat.
Carefully cut around the piece – now you have a perfectly matching pair:
Do the same thing for the Centre Front Bodice – cutting right sides together so that you have a pair:
At this stage I usually can’t wait to get to the machine! I really enjoy cutting lace and seeing how it all comes together. Don’t forget to ask questions if you need to, and let me know how your skirt cutting went too!
Next up I’ll show you how to do an FBA, and then an alteration for using a narrower lace.
And shall I start a Flickr group so we can share pretty pictures of all our fabrics? It could be helpful for lace cutting queries too. Let me know in the comments!