~the chanel jacket begins~

I began working on my Chanel-style jacket yesterday, here is the illustration and shell fabric:

 
As you can see it is a fairly standard shape, so I simply started from my existing jacket block with a princess line, which is a standard NZ size 10, and I graded it up to my measurements, which are a mish-mash of sizes between 10-14!  I made a quick calico toile, and it fitted perfectly – I just need to rotate the sleeve forward slightly.  Because  I am after a cropped fitted look, I will shorten the body to high hip level and the sleeve to 3/4 length.

Luckily I happen to have perfectly matching silk/cotton in my stash, and I will use this for the lining.  I have 5m of this silk/cotton, so might even make a matching blouse just like Chanel used to do. Hopefully I can think of something that is not too naff!   A simple sleeveless shell might be nice, but I could have enough for something else – suggestions welcome!.
I will have enough main fabric leftover to make a skirt, so will put pink lining in that as well, but doubt I will wear it as a suit – that could be a bit too granny-like for me in this fabric!  But maybe with black…..

I played around for ages experimenting with trims – I unravelled threads from the cloth and plaited them, crocheted them, and mixed them with existing trims I own. But have finally settled on simply using the selvedge like in the above photo.  The fabric reverse has a lot of black threads so it provides a bit of contrast, and the selvedge is pretty cute.  The left and right selvedge is slightly different though, so I won’t be able to use them together.
And I couldn’t help myself, I had to immediately cut out the back blocks and start quilting to see how it would look!:
I machine quilted in the lines of every second check repeat, which amounts to quite a lot of quilting!  But I quite like the effect – just like a Chanel handbag 😉
So – first a quick trip into the library to return my overdue-and-rapidly-accumulating-fines Burda mags, and I hope to get more done today!
?Eh – what trenchcoat?? 
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I'm a designer/patternmaker who loves to share my sewing knowledge with others! Follow me as I sew my personal projects, sharing my favourite tricks of the trade along the way.

18 thoughts on “~the chanel jacket begins~

  1. wow that is going to be amazing – don't ask me for style advice though – I totally love granny chic and I'd be looking for the naffest combination I could find – pussy bow blouse probably. No, not for the young and hip .. I do love unexpected combinations though – how about something dutch and deconstructed, with mad exposed seams and external zippers and the like, or do you think that has been done to death now and so early naughties. sigh. I don't know – I only know I'd be hamming up the twee factor.

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  2. Oooh – I'm looking forward to watching progress on this project. I've never been a fan of the boxy Chanel jackets, but the construction appeals to me a lot! I suspect that the proportions of yours are going to sway me. It's going to be gorgeous.

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  3. ~Mary Nanna – Thanks for a great idea -something deconstructed could give it that much-needed edge…
    ~Judy – I'm not into boxy jackets either – this one's definitely having shaping, to give me a waist, or the illusion of one…
    ~Cindy – I used the checks as guidelines – thank goodness they were straight!

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  4. I admire all the dressmakers who dare to the Chanel jacket. As far as I know it is sewing on a specific art, where the lining with the main fabric sewn together.and the jacket then consists of many parts. my greatest respect!
    I have some files, how to do it, but I ran not trust me 🙂

    Julia

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  5. Hello Whn I was in Paris I saw a real Chaneljacket and blouse which were at the most amazing shop I have ever been in ,in The Palais Royale. I cant remember the full name but his last name was Diderot . He was a very nice man who let me look at the clothes and I was lucky enough to have a look at a couture jacket and blouse ensemble . The blouse was princess line like the jacket , with a round neck and a placket opening in one of the front seams.The princess seams went into the shoulder rather than the sleeve. The bottom of the blouse was finished in a shaped band which would have either sat inside the skirt or over the top , like a very modest little peplum. I think this ensemble was probably from the sixties. The skirt wasnt there unforunately . I was amazed at how hand made it looked . I can remember my mother always trying to make everything look as “bought” as possible when I was a kid.
    The jacket had a 3 piece sleeve with a seam running down the centre of the top of the sleeve to the wrist and the under arm seams were such that the sleeve placket was a little further toward the front than is usual I think. The buttonholes were absolutely beautiful , hand made and perfect . The whole thing was more like a cardigan that a jacket I doubt that there was any interfacing and if there was it was VERY light. I cant remember the trim and actually it may have just had a piping in the lining fabric . the lining did come to the edge , there were no facings at all and there was no hem .Hope that helps . I like Mary Nannas ideas though.

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  6. ~mem – thanks for your description! I too have been amazed how some of these garments look so 'handmade', which I have always tried to avoid! I am going to eliminate facings, but will probably make a hem because of the chain weight, but will make this decision towards the end – I can always cut it off!
    ~lazystitching – yes they do – with pattern sheets! Just inside the door and to the left 🙂
    ~Eugenia – I dunno – there is a bit of handsewing involved…!

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  7. Just found your blog – thanks for commenting on my latest post. 🙂

    This is going to be gorgeous!! I really like that you're going to use the selvedge for the trim – just enough contrast to pop, but not so much that it's distracting. I'm also drooling over the pale pink color. So pretty!

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  8. Oh how elegant! I just read Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques and was intrigued how real Chanel jackets are sewn – quilting the lining to the body fabric, weighting the hem, all that. I know you'll do a beautiful job!
    Love the fabric choice too, the pink is lovely.

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