~tricks of the trade: french seam a dart~

April 23, 2010.Reading time 5 minutes.

How to french seam darts, a technique for sheer fabrics

After making my emerald shift dress I found I was left with about 70cm of fabric, so I thought while the sewing machine is still threaded up with green thread, I would put this remainder to good use by making a camisole top – the #101 top from Burda 12/2006 to be exact! This style features an empire line seam with bust darts, […]

~tricks of the trade: facing an invisible zip~

April 2, 2010.Reading time 7 minutes.

This tutorial shows you how to apply your facing around an invisible zip using your machine all the way – no handstitching or hooks! The facing is set back from the zip on the inside, so that it never gets caught when the zip is used. I always make my facing pattern so that it […]

~tricks of the trade: fusetape~

March 24, 2010.Reading time 3 minutes.

You’ll wonder how you ever managed without fusetape – like blockfusing it solves many sewing problems! I use my favourite lightweight knit fusible, which bonds readily with a domestic iron. In the trade you’ll have the luxury of getting a whole roll of fusing sliced up into lots of convenient rolls of ribbon, but at home you’ll need to save […]

~skirt #108 burda 1/2010~

March 23, 2010.Reading time 4 minutes.

I bought the January 2010 BurdaStyle magazine! Even though I am a patternmaker, I’m using a commercial pattern – am I allowed to do that?! I feel like I am cheating! But if it saves time, why not, plus I can help others by blogging about it! I used to sew from Burda and Neue Mode magazines […]

~tricks of the trade: easy french seams~

March 18, 2010.Reading time 2 minutes.

French seams are used on fine and sheer fabrics, and they give a more attractive finish than simply overlocking. However they can be a bit fiddly and many sewers give up on them, but here is a way to get perfect seams even with the wigglyest of fabrics! Here my total seam allowance is 10mm, […]