Earlier this year I made this dress in a dark plum viscose georgette, and I have never shown you, because other than trying it on for size, I have never actually worn it!
It really needs boots to give it an edge, and my wardrobe lacks a pair of them at the moment, so the poor thing sits there in the back of my wardrobe a bit lost and lonely and semi-forgotton…..
Anyway, I took a few photos while making it so I could make a tutorial on how to attach a shirt style cuff. This is a method used in manufacturing – there is no handsewing involved and it is so quick you’ll be wondering if you left out a step!
The cuff I am attaching is a narrow one piece cuff, where the lower edge is folded, but you can easily attach a two piece cuff the same way.
- Press the seam allowance of one long edge of the cuff to the wrong side. This edge will be on the outer cuff when finished, and often on shirts it is simply stitched down at 6mm.
- If your cuff is one-piece like mine, fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Then fold the seam allowance of the unpressed long edge around the pressed edge, towards you, as shown. Stitch across the end, and do this for both ends of the cuff. (You can see I pressed both long edges by mistake, it is best if you don’t do that!)
- Turn the cuff and press – the inside edge should be 1-2mm wider than the outside edge:
- Slot the lower end of your sleeve into the cuff to begin edgestitching. Because the inside edge of the cuff is slightly wider, it will automatically be caught when you edgestitch. Make sure the end of the cuff wraps around the sleeve vent neatly, and that the raw edges are lined up inside the cuff so your seam allowance is accurate:
- As you edgestitch the cuff to the sleeve you can align any notches, such as this one for the sleeve seam:
- As you reach the end, ensure the end of the cuff wraps neatly around the sleeve vent again:
- You can either stop stitching at the sleeve vent, or continue edgestitching right around the cuff:
- Just as I did on this one:
- And see the inside? The inner cuff is automatically caught in your edgestitching and looks really neat – no handsewing required!
Check your pattern pieces fit accurately! Line up your cuff pattern with your sleeve pattern and make sure they match – you will be surprised how many patterns don’t. Remember to account for the sleeve vent and any pleats.
And blockfuse your cuff pieces for cutting accuracy.
Note the lack of pins in these photos – you don’t need to pin everything before you sew it! Not only is pinning time consuming, it is also less accurate as it prevents the fabric layers from lying truely flat. Scandalous, I know!