I needed a suit – the one that I do have doesn’t fit anymore, so I made one! I’ve got to say it is great when you can make one to your own specifications – and you can save so much!
I found a gorgeous wool herringbone stripe in a charcoaly slate colour. It is very fine and loosely woven (ie, frays when you just look at it) but is very covetable. I blockfused everything except the backs and sleeves, where I reinforced the seams with fusetape to prevent seam slippage.
This jacket isn’t my design – I unashamedly drafted it from a picture out of a magazine! It is rare that there is nothing I want to change about a design (after all that’s probably why most of us start sewing!), but this was one of those instances.
The jacket is too large for the mannequin and looks floppy on her, so I ‘m showing you just one side to try and demonstrate how it fits on me. Once upon a time we were exactly the same size, which was very convenient, but I am afraid that is no longer the modern day reality.
The pocket is quite cute isn’t it? Studying the photo I really wish I sewed it on from the inside, the edgestitching and herringbone weave clash. I did bound buttonholes because I don’t have access to a keyhole buttonholer at the moment, but much as I like them I do prefer to finalise my button position at a final fitting.
The sleeve head is slightly gathered, and it does look better on real shoulders than my mannequin who is lacking in that area. I recently did a tutorial on tailored jacket sleeve vents using this jacket as the sample, so do check it out if you plan on doing these soon – using the correct method they are not hard at all.
This jacket has a curved front neckline, and it is the first time I have constructed lapels cut separately from the fronts, and I am not entirely happy with how it sits at the break point. This is a soft fabric and sits not-to-bad, but with a heavier weight fabric it wouldn’t be quite so co-operative, so I need to make some cloth allowance adjustments, and maybe strategically trim some seams to enable the roll to form at the correct point. I don’t want to slot both layers of the lapel into the neckline seam as I have seen in cheap ready-to-wear, so suggestions welcome!