I’m planning to make a jacket or coat shortly, and that’s a perfect opportunity to show you some ready-to-wear tailoring! By “ready-to-wear tailoring”, I mean the fusible method that is used in most garment manufacturing today – where everything is completely machine sewn. The only needle that needs to be threaded is the one on your sewing machine!
This is a great method for those of us that don’t have the time, patience or expertise to do traditional hand-tailoring. Speedy machinists can sew a jacket in a couple of hours, but I’m not that quick – it used to take me about 4 hours to assemble a jacket using this method. But quick construction does not mean inferior results – we’ll be using the same high-end ready-to-wear techniques used in that $800 jacket you were admiring while you were out shopping the other day!
So are you keen? Do you want to sewalong with me and learn how to assemble a tailored jacket efficiently and with professional results? Let’s do it!
To give everyone time to select patterns and fabrics, I thought a start date of 1 April would be ideal – that gives you about three weeks to decide on a style. I suggest a fairly standard tailored jacket or coat design – either single or double breasted with a collar and lapel and two-piece sleeves, as this is the type of design and construction I will demonstrate the method for.
I’m thinking of making this vintage pattern for the sewalong, but I might change my mind still! Something I do want to demonstrate is how to adapt a commercial pattern to suit this method of construction, as home sewing and industrial methods are quite different. A bit of pattern adaptation at the start really minimises the sewing time. So you’ll need some paper, pen and a ruler too! And paper scissors, because you weren’t thinking of using your fabric scissors for cutting paper were you…..
I’d like to start the sewalong at the stage where you have your toiles/muslins fitted and any pattern alterations done. I did consider of covering fitting but that could take a month in itself to do properly! So it might be best to discuss any personal fitting issues you are having within the Flickr group as you post your photos, and then everyone can offer their advice there. Do you think that sounds ok?
(Note to self – start Flickr group!)
For fabrics, I suggest good quality, medium weight fabrics in natural fibres as they are easy to tailor – and sewing should be fun, right? Good quality might cost a little extra, but consider how minimal that extra is for just 2m of cloth – $10? $20? In my opinion that is a small price to pay to avoid sewing with fabrics that blatently misbehave and make you cross, and the end result will be a better quality jacket too.
100% wool is a classic choice – it presses into shape beautifully and you can’t go far wrong. You could also choose silk or linen if you are heading into spring. Firmly woven fabrics like wool gabardine and many manmade fabrics are more difficult to tailor so you might want to avoid them unless you are experienced. You will need a few other materials too – fusing, lining, shoulder pads, sleeve head wadding, etc – and I’ll cover those requirements in more detail in another post soon.
Are you excited? I am – I love making jackets and coats! So if you want to sewalong, here’s what to do:
- Sign up for the sewalong in the comments below
- Choose your jacket pattern
- Go shopping for fabric
- Get to work fitting your toile/muslin, so you are ready to start on April 1
pattern scissors cloth 
I've thought about this overnight, and really I can't think of a reason NOT to join in (other than I had wanted a jacket done before April). Never mind though, I have the idea for a spring jacket (a knock off of a Talbots jacket… do you have Talbots in NZ?), I have the vintage pattern to start from, and I've ordered 2 different colors of faille (which I've never sewn with). I think advice and opinions are just what I need! Oh, and never mind that by the time it's done it will probably be too hot here.
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oh yes, yes! hoorah!!
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I'd love to join. Haven't done a jacket yet – I'm in the US so I'll be doing a Spring weight one too.
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I'd love to join, it'll be my first coat though, but I've always wanted to learn how to make one. And the idea of it being as quick as possible, yay! yay for sewing machines … 🙂
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Wow after all these comments I hope you get down to this one….
Sherry I've passed on to you an Awesome blog award because I think your blog is awesome, naturally! If you want to check it out, I have put the link and button on my blog here
http://handmadebycarolyn.blogspot.com/2011/03/what-day-is-it-today.html
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Do you use fusible hymo? know any good sources for it? I've only used sew-in hymo: lovely but definitely not quick. I'm getting psyched!
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I would love to join in – I've got Vogue 8333, the Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection which I would love to make up. Is this a suitable pattern for your sew a long?
Now, I'm going to have to get to grips with fba and flikr!
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I'm in. I have one cut out, the muslin fitted and ready to go. Exciting. I think it's Simplicity 2508, for curiousity's sake.
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I'm in too :D!
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Count me in too! I am very excited. Better get that fabric ordered.
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Great idea, and pleased to see so many interested in the project. I will think about joining, after all who doesn't have a jacket/coat or two on the to do list.
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1st thought – “Oh be still my beating heart, I am so up for this!”
2nd thought “But I don't actually NEED another coat.”
3rd thought (while rolling around on the floor laughing hysterically) “Since when has NEED ever influenced my sewing choices?!”
Count me in. And thank you for hosting this – it'll be an education and a whole lot of fun.
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That's so exiting. Please count me in. I don't know if I can keep up with speed, but I'll watch and learn…
xxx
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Count me in. I keep putting off making a jacket. Hopefully this will give me the push I need.
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Yes please!
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I'm in! Thanks for organizing this.
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I would like to follow along too please! Thanks
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I'm totally in! I don't have the patience to hand-tailor, but desperately need more jackets!
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I have been planning a boyfriend blazer for a long time! This is the perfect motivation I need to get going on it. Count me in and thanks!
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I just started reading, and this post is really good timing! I've been thinking for a while of doing Vogue 8333, the same blazer as Carolyn and daisydonut, and I'd love to be counted in.
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I just happened upon your blog today…would love to follow along with the Tailoring Sewalong series.
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Yes please 🙂 I'm in Australia so this sewalong is in sync with my season!
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Include me too please! Wow, this is uncannily perfect timing, last night I started to organize sewing myself my first core wardrobe based on “Fashion for Dummies” and I need the basic black jacket. I've made some wool coats and jackets before but it's been OMG 20 years!
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I'm in, and excited, it's my first sew along!
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Oh I have just found this as we are travelling. I have just purchased some beautiful aubergine camel hair wool, just so soft from Mill End in Portland that I was planing to make up in a BWOF pattern, sorry that is not with me at present, but would love to join in this sew along to keep me going. I have also purchased some quilted lining and am thinking of doing a zippered in quilted lining for when I go to the snow which can be quite a few times during the season. I will be home on the 15th of March so should be able to work to the timeline.
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I am joining up! I will be making a version for my tall and lean 10 yr old so if anyone can recommend a suitable pattern, would love to hear from you. If you think she is too small, here is a fact…she is in size 37 shoes already!
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I'm excited to have someone hold my hand while making a coat. I've sewn since I was a young girl, but have never attempted something this complex. Thank you for giving us all access to your expertise!
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I'm in! I've been wanting to try a jacket for some time now. I will try to make my own patterns, based on the Vogue 8333 jacket or something alike. I'm excited already!
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Very excited….. I have the perfect pattern…..it's my first jacket so it would be great to discuss how to go about doing the muslin…e.g. pointers on what the focus should be….I”m such a rookie!!!!
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Coats intimidate me! What a great opportunity take it step by step. Thank you. I have a burda linen in mind. I must get crackin' on the muslin.
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yes, I would like to join up. Aprils will be a mad, crazy month for me but I do have a Jacket I have been trying to get done for a very long time now!
Count me in!!!
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this will be my first
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Ooooh…I would absolutely love to join in. jackets are my favorite thing to sew, even though I generally have no idea what I'm doing, and I'd love to learn more! Now I just have to settle on one pattern….
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I think every new season deserves its own great jacket, and I do plan on making a nice spring/ summer one myself. I certainly do not want to miss out on your RTW sewing tips so please sign me up too and I will follow along with you guys as time will allow. Thanks.
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I'm in!
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I'd love to participate also! ?Thanks for doing this. Now to go decide on a pattern.
Shirley
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Zanda recommend to me this blog, and I'm excited. I hope I will be able to participate. Because I hope get ready a spring coat / Jacket:) Only my broblem, I need resize pattern to smaller size – this ir Bigest challenge to me, than sewing:)
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Me too, if it's not too late. I've been wanting to do a jacket for ages.
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I would like to join the group. I love making jackets and I have 10 yards of fuschia wool/cashmere that I have been wanting to use.
Jenny
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wow – I'm so glad I stopped by your blog today…. I'd love to join. I've only ever made one jacket before. It worked ok, but I didn't exactly know what I was doing. I'll be off to pick fabric and pattern this weekend.
JessB in Vancouver
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I'm in 🙂
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Alright, I'm in. I'll be making an ocean blue wide-wale corduroy jacket from a militaristic WW2 jacket pattern. Should be fun!
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I would love to join you. I have been meaning to sew a tailored manish jacket. I already bought some supplies, I have to select what pattern i want to make and I'm up for the ride. Cant'wait, my first sewalong too. 🙂
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I'm in!!! I really want a jacket for the coming spring and I've just bought the Built by Wendy Jackets book so I'm all set!
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OK, count me in too! You can never have too many tailored jackets. I am torn between marfy 2117 and 2132 for a lovely navy pinstripe.
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I am totally intrigued – and in! Well, I'm going to try and stay in. (Note to self – joined a sew-along.) Can't wait to see your methods as I LOVE making jackets.
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Okay, I can't hold out any longer. I'm in! 🙂
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Okay, I have never participated in a sewalong, but this sounds too great to pass up. I would love to join. How does it work exactly?
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I am excited about this project. I am getting back into sewing for just me after many years of sewing for my girls. I have wool waiting in the cedar closet ready to be made into something special.
Holly
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Oh, wow – so many commenters! This will be fun, I´m in – need to make more jackets, and this sound like a fun way of doing it! 🙂
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