Vintage Sewalong: Final Toile

This is it – my final toile, in all it’s glory:

What a kerfuffle!  Since my last post I did the following refinements:

  • lowered front neckline
  • moved bust point of french dart
  • reduced shoulder length and reshaped armhole front and back
  • raised back darts
  • taken in side seams and french dart
  • shortened, and hem band = 10cm
  • fixed shoulder drag lines

To fix the drag line between my shoulder and bust point, I first clipped into the armhole to the drag line to release the tension.  The armhole edge opened up and the drag line disappeared – yay, cause of problem found:

However you can’t exactly do this to your pattern, so on the opposite side I slashed to the neckline from that point, and here held together with red Christmas tape you can see the extra height I needed at the front shoulder, and this is essentially what I did to the pattern as well.

I cut it out this morning, and I just had enough fabric!
And the linen tells me my shears are very blunt!

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I'm a designer/patternmaker who loves to share my sewing knowledge with others! Follow me as I sew my personal projects, sharing my favourite tricks of the trade along the way.

15 thoughts on “Vintage Sewalong: Final Toile

  1. Oh my gosh! I think you may have just answered my prayers! I am having the exact same problem with shoulder drag lines (at least I think so)on a bodice I'm drafting (I'm calling it my “Go To” dress). Would it be toooo cheeky to ask you to pop over and have a look at the pictures on my blog and give me your opinion? I'd really value some input. I only recently discovered your blog and have been telling lots of people about it.
    Your dress is going to be so lovely. Really classic.
    Portia (MissP)
    xxx

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  2. The toile is gorgeous and I can't wait to see the dress. I had another look at version 1, which looks awful, and I realised I've been giving up too quickly on some patterns. Thanks for the inspiration to persevere.

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  3. Thank you so much for explaining how to get rid of the shoulder drag line! I had no idea that that was how it's done. And the look of your toile now compared to before is amazing. Thanks again!

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  4. Isn't it amazing how much of a difference small changes can make?

    It looks like you did a square shoulder adjustment. I've just added it to my, uh, adjustments list. It's easy to do, but very effective.

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  5. Já posso imaginar o qul bonito vai ficar seu vestido, por isso uma peça feita a mão e sob medida tem um caimento tão impecável.
    Admiro seu blog. Suas instruções são ótimas, já aprendi muito com você.

    Abraços

    Eilane – Brasil

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  6. It is looking good. I am most fascinated and appreciative of your previous post where you showed how the side seams were not hanging straight. I see people in ready to wear clothes with that and it bugs me.
    looking forward to seeing your dress.

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