Vintage Sewalong: Final Toile

This is it – my final toile, in all it’s glory:

What a kerfuffle!  Since my last post I did the following refinements:

  • lowered front neckline
  • moved bust point of french dart
  • reduced shoulder length and reshaped armhole front and back
  • raised back darts
  • taken in side seams and french dart
  • shortened, and hem band = 10cm
  • fixed shoulder drag lines

To fix the drag line between my shoulder and bust point, I first clipped into the armhole to the drag line to release the tension.  The armhole edge opened up and the drag line disappeared – yay, cause of problem found:

However you can’t exactly do this to your pattern, so on the opposite side I slashed to the neckline from that point, and here held together with red Christmas tape you can see the extra height I needed at the front shoulder, and this is essentially what I did to the pattern as well.

I cut it out this morning, and I just had enough fabric!
And the linen tells me my shears are very blunt!

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Designer, Patternmaker, Blogger Of All Things Sewing. Follow as I share projects, patterns, and my favourite tricks of the trade.

15 thoughts on “Vintage Sewalong: Final Toile

  1. Oh my gosh! I think you may have just answered my prayers! I am having the exact same problem with shoulder drag lines (at least I think so)on a bodice I'm drafting (I'm calling it my “Go To” dress). Would it be toooo cheeky to ask you to pop over and have a look at the pictures on my blog and give me your opinion? I'd really value some input. I only recently discovered your blog and have been telling lots of people about it.
    Your dress is going to be so lovely. Really classic.
    Portia (MissP)


  2. The toile is gorgeous and I can't wait to see the dress. I had another look at version 1, which looks awful, and I realised I've been giving up too quickly on some patterns. Thanks for the inspiration to persevere.


  3. Thank you so much for explaining how to get rid of the shoulder drag line! I had no idea that that was how it's done. And the look of your toile now compared to before is amazing. Thanks again!


  4. Isn't it amazing how much of a difference small changes can make?

    It looks like you did a square shoulder adjustment. I've just added it to my, uh, adjustments list. It's easy to do, but very effective.


  5. Já posso imaginar o qul bonito vai ficar seu vestido, por isso uma peça feita a mão e sob medida tem um caimento tão impecável.
    Admiro seu blog. Suas instruções são ótimas, já aprendi muito com você.


    Eilane – Brasil


  6. It is looking good. I am most fascinated and appreciative of your previous post where you showed how the side seams were not hanging straight. I see people in ready to wear clothes with that and it bugs me.
    looking forward to seeing your dress.


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