Sometimes the best fabric purchases are the ones you never intend to make – like when you go in to Spotlight to buy a mint coloured cotton knit for a t-shirt, and walk out with a khaki green python printed rayon instead. Oops!
I usually only buy fabric with a vision in mind, and for this fabric I imagined a safari style shirt with pockets, in a relaxed fit. This required some modifications to my standard fitted shirt block – it’s been ages since I made a loose fitting shirt!
Once I had perfected the foundation I could start on all those exciting safari style details. Like patch pockets with box pleats and contoured flaps. And shoulder straps with a button tab.
Admittedly a lot of the detail is lost in the print, but it is there and creates subtle interest.
I drafted forward fastening cuffs with a deep sleeve tuck. The cuffs were a sticking point as I didn’t really know what I wanted. The near-finished shirt sat on the dummy for a couple of weeks, with the sleeves in various stages of reincarnation, until I settled on the final result. I really needed to recut the sleeves to get the true effect I wanted, but unfortunately didn’t have enough fabric. Never mind, the result is good enough.
Sewing this shirt was a pleasure with all the interesting details. Something I enjoy about sewing is each stage, and the step by step progress towards the final goal.
And I enjoy paying attention to detail, and sewing the intricate bits. Like pocket flaps. Here you can see how this one is sewn – after bagging out and pressing the flap, the top edge is sewn on upside down about 2cm above the pocket bag, then it is flipped down and topstitched at 6mm, enclosing the raw edge. Easy-peasy.
I’m really liking it! I wonder if I need a plain one in silk as well? Or maybe a dress version!
pattern scissors cloth 
Beautiful sewing, and a clever adaptation of a shirt block. It’s a nice fit. Is there a half bust dart hidden under the pocket? We are of similar stature but I can’t seem to get away with an entirely dartless garment.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Beth! There are no darts, but there is bust suppression hidden in the front yoke gathers.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love this shirt!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Very attractive – classic and stylish. I love the details (pockets and shoulder tabs)!
LikeLiked by 1 person
The shoulder tabs were an afterthought, that I am glad I thought of!
LikeLike
I see some gathers at the front to back shoulder join so that would allow for the bust instead of a dart. I have a Palmer and Pletsch McCall’s pattern that does the same. Love the details. And you are right, they are subtle, but there.
I know what you mean about fabric that just jumps into your arms (or cart) when you see it. My first fabric purchase of 2020 is on its way after seeing someone else’s Carolyn Pajamas in a fantasy book print.
LikeLiked by 2 people
That’s correct Theresa, I made a shirt in the ’80s with the same gathers off a yoke – loved it!
Your pyjamas sound like they are going to be fun!
LikeLike
Lovely! Inspiration for us!
LikeLike
Gorgeous n you Sheryll, who knew old Spotty could manage such a chic fabric?! I often think I’m wasting my time making detail on cheaper fabrics, but this looks truly worthy. Just a question, when using rayon do you keep seam allowances wider? I’ve noticed that over time with washing they start to fray no matter how small the stitch length almost. Keen to hear your thoughts.
Happy 2020 luv, 48.9C in Sydney yesterday, send us some cool vibes mate. Xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Spotlight have some gems hiding there if you have the time to look!
For rayon I always use a 1cm seam allowance and overlock them together, and haven’t had problems with fraying. Is it on the stitching line? It could be that the needle isn’t sharp and is damaging the fabric?
Hope you are surviving in that heat! And that those terrible bushfires stop soon 😦
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes in the stitching line but usually where I’ve trimmed the seam allowance back for a curve or inside a facing. I’m going to try to be more cognisant of generous seam allowances in future, I probably often over trim! Xx
LikeLike
This is so gorgeous. I love the attention to every little detail.
Triumph. As always.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Great details in this shirt, Sheryll! Such a lovely fit and is really perfect fabric/ print/color/pattern combination. Love the pockets and the gathers and tab details xx Camelia
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautiful shirt! Impressed with your sewing skills…:)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Perfection!!
LikeLiked by 1 person