Not all fabrics shrink and require prewashing, in fact doing so may make your fabric harder to handle during the cutting and sewing process.
I recommend prewashing a test swatch and calculating shrinkage before throwing fabric in the machine willy-nilly. All the details about how to do this are in this previous blog post.
When cutting fusing pieces that are to be applied (as opposed to blockfused) trim an extra 3mm (1/8″) from the outer edges, as indicated by the red line of this fusing pattern below:
This automatically creates the effect of a graded seam allowance and reduces bulk. With the added advantage of preventing overlapping bits of fusing from ruining your ironing board cover!
Excess folds of fabric at the back waist mean a sway back adjustment is necessary – right?
Not always! There are other fitting factors that can cause the same or similar problems. These could be a short upper back, prominent buttocks or high hip, prominent bust, overfitted side seams, or a short torso. Make sure you diagnose the right problem for the right alteration!
Did you know…
… that when you are setting in a sleeve, the area around the shoulder notch should have minimal ease? Distribute most of the ease to the sides, where the grain is malleable.
This month I’m linking to an old Ready-To-Wear Tailoring Sewalong tutorial – all about how to bag out the lining in a jacket. As usual it is totally by machine, no hand sewing involved!
That’s it for this month! I’m off to start on my suit refashion for Portia’s Refashioners 2017 challenge. I’m determined to finish it this year. Last year I started the jeans refashion and that half-finished project is still buried somewhere in my workroom! What’s your plan for the weekend?