Welcome to the seventh edition of 5 Sewing Tips! I’ve been reposting these little tips that have been hiding long lost in my blog since September now – I hope you are enjoying them as much as I am enjoying putting them together. This month is all about cutting bias pieces, sewing a neckline facing, my favourite fusing, selvedge puckers, and blockfusing.
My best tip for cutting bias pieces is to ensure that the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines are perfectly straight and perpendicular to each other throughout the whole piece of fabric. To do this you need a large cutting area – which is why you can see floorboards in this photo! Some might frown, but this is far superior to fabric hanging off the end of the table, pulling the grain out of alignment.
Also, merely eyeballing the grainline arrow is risky when your pattern piece is laid at an angle – always measure from the selvedge. I’m amazed how far out my placement can be when I try and guess!
When sewing a faced neckline, sew the shoulder seams, but stop stitching at the neckline seam and leave the last bit of seam allowance unstitched. This allows for a nicer turn at the neck edge without clipping:
This is the fusible interfacing that I use the most – a lightweight knit. I highly recommend it for the home sewer as it bonds readily with a domestic iron (a lot don’t).
I use this lightweight knit fusing on everything from jackets to georgette. It is great to use on stretch wovens where you wish to retain a degree of stretch, and provides just the right amount of body for most of the garments I make. I always keep plenty of black and white on hand.
Here is a cutting tip for fabrics that have an overly tight selvedge that puckers and won’t lie flat, like this stretch satin – look at those puckers along the lower edge:
Take a few seconds to clip the selvedge at intervals to release the tension – you’ll have perfectly flat fabric in no time, and more accurately cut pieces!
Do you blockfuse your collars/cuffs/facings/bits and pieces yet? If not, you don’t know what you are missing, and urgently need to click the picture below.
Obviously I’m a complete fan 🙂
That’s it for this month! Hope you found something to help you in your sewing. Do tell me though – do you blockfuse your fabric or not?