The easy way to approach this is to hem each panel separately first, then sew the seams of the pleat. This has a disadvantage in that the seam allowance is readily seen at the hem fold. Instead you can try the method I’ve used here.
Sew the panel seams. I have marked the hem foldline with a small clip, and above this cut a V notch from the seam allowance exactly where the overlocked hem edge will fold to. For instance, if your hem is 4cm, then the V notch will be positioned at 8cm. Cut the V notch to within 1-2mm of your stitching line:
Press the seam within the hem allowance open:
One last thing is to fold the inner fold of the pleat into it’s finished position, then on the inside, edgestitch where the hem folds:
This helps hold that foldline in position forever, and makes it easier when pressing too!
A box pleat is the reverse of an inverted pleat, and any seams on the inner fold will lay towards the centre. You can use this hem technique on a box pleat as well, or any other pleat designed with a seam – it gives a tidier finish, don’t you think?
Happy Sewing!
Thanks for this tip. I once tried sewing this kind of pleat and made a real mess of it. Next time, I'll be armed!
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Terrific info. Wish I'd seen this before I hemmed my pleated culottes!
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Brilliant! Thanks for this!
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This is SO timely! I've got to finish up my Anna Maria Horner skirt that has pleats to it. Thanks so much.
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Really clear directions as always Sherry-thanks for taking the time:)
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This is totally getting bookmarked for future use! Thanks!
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Very nice, at some point perhaps you would consider posting how to line such a pleat?
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Thank you Sherry for another great tutorial.
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Great tutorial – thanks as always.
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Clever.
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Wonderful tip 🙂
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Thank you for this tip, box pleats are so in for winter and I was wondering how I would do my hem, thank you again.
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I had an school uniform with an inverted pleat. Thank you for the hemming instructions.
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what a very neat result, and your instructions are soooo clear, many thanks!
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As always, your tips/tutorials are the best. Thanks so much for sharing with us!
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Thanks for the tip! I've always wondered how to hem a pieced inverted pleat. And now I know – yay! 🙂
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What an amazing solution. Thanks for sharing.
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Sherry thank you. You've resolved the problem I have with my orange ponte skirt which has two inverted pleats at the back that dont sit right because my hem treatment was incorrect. Next time will be perfect.
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Thank you so much for the sewing tricks. Must use this one from now on. Thanks again.
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Thanks for another great tutorial! You really have some great tips and tricks!
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Thank you! I'll be using this soon on V2903.
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Wonderful tip! Thank you so much.
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