The Ruby Slip #8 – Finishing!

Today is the final instalment of the Ruby Slip Sewalong!  If you still need to download the free pattern or catch up on previous sewalong posts, check out the Sewalong tab above for all the links.

By now you will have assembled the bias skirt and the lace bodice, so it is time to sew them together!  Place the bodice inside the skirt with their right sides together – you will notice a double notch at the centre backs, so line them up:

Then start sewing with the lace on top and satin on the bottom.  The satin will feel slightly larger than the lace but it isn’t – this is the cut edge of the satin spreading out because it is on the bias.  Slip your L hand between the layers and adjust the satin so it lies flat, even, and the notches match:

I didn’t mention this earlier but when I sewed my lace bodice I topstitched the side seam forwards instead of back, but the skirt side seam will still face to the back like so:

I often do this to reduce bulk, and it also makes it easier to align the seamlines perfectly without doglegs – you know how they always want to shift a millimetre or two?  Well problem solved:

If you are using contrasting fabrics, you might need to change thread colours when you overlock this seam.  For my red Ruby I overlocked the skirt sides in red and the underbust seam in black, as red overlocking would have shown through the black lace as a contrast.

Straps:

To make spaghetti straps, fold the strap lengthwise right sides together and stitch 3mm from the fold:

Stretch the tube slightly as you sew, so the stitching doesn’t pop when it is stretched!

I use a tapestry needle and a few strands of thread to turn my tube through, but everyone has their own method. There are a few tips in this previous post.

Sew one end of the strap to the front seam – I sewed a rectangle to flatten the strap as well as secure it:

Now try the slip on, and pin the straps to the back.  Pin them to the highest point of a scallop nearest the dot.  The underbust seam should remain horizontal to the floor, the bust point should be in the correct place, and the skirt should lie smoothly:

You are probably thinking by now that you should have sewn the straps to the back first, so it would be easier to pin the correct length at the front – and you are totally right!  That is a much easier way to do it if you are trying it on yourself.  With a dress form you can do either, and with a client it is more appropriate to pin at the back.

Remove the slip and check they are the same length:

In ready-to-wear, they should be the same length.  In your custom version they may well vary – most of us have one shoulder lower than the other, one breast larger than the other, or something!  If they differ a lot, it would pay to try it on again and double check.

Sew the strap to the lace as before, I trimmed the end to a point so it looked neat:

You’re finished now!  Oops, not quite:

Don’t forget a little trim!  I am blown away every time how much the right little trim enhances the final result – it is like putting an angel on top of the Christmas tree!

One more thing – I did start a Flickr group for the Ruby Slip SewAlong, so feel free to join up and post photos of your fabrics, your work in progress, and the final result – I can’t wait to see them!

Happy Sewing!
Sherry