Do you love looking at vintage patterns? I do! Here are some that I’ve bought recently – in reverse chronological order:
1970’s Vogue Paris Original 2627 Molyneux, Misses Dress
Mid-knee length dress has fitted bodice with bias front and dropped back waistline. Self or contrast bias notched collar, slightly flared skirt (no side seams) with bias front panel forming side front pleats, short or full length sleeves with self or contrast slit bias cuff and button and buttonhole trim. Purchased contour belt.
And look what was inside – A Vogue Paris Original label:
1967 Simplicity 7265 Misses Suit with Two Skirts
The skirts have side zipper and waistband. Skirt V. 1 is straight. Skirt V. 2 is A-line. The lined, double breasted jacket with princess seaming has collar, long set-in sleeves, front button closing and pockets concealed in side front seams. Jacket V. 2 has fur fabric collar sewn over jacket collar or a purchased fur collar may be worn.
It is quite plain, but I bought it from the same supplier to “save postage” haha! And I just love a 60’s suit.
1966 Vogue Couturier Design 1797 Jo Mattli, Two-piece suit
Jacket has scallop and top-stitch trim at neckline. Seven-eighths length sleeves and pockets in side front seams. Straight skirt with contour waistband and side back zipper closing.
1966 Vogue Paris Original 1918 Givenchy, One-piece dress and jacket
Loose-fitting straight dress with high V-neckline, has cap sleeves; contour buttoned belt. Pockets in side seams. Slightly fitted double-breasted jacket with bias collar, has seven-eighths length kimono sleeves with gussets.
I’m looking forward to making this one, but have no idea what fabric I will use yet – perhaps I need something new?!
1940’s Academy 2029 Dress
This Academy pattern has no description, but the illustration is self-explanatory:
I didn’t realise that Academy Patterns were manufactured here in Auckland! Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find out much about them so if anybody does know more about them please share – it will be an interesting slice of NZ history. I did find some sewing patterns from “NZ Cutters Academy” from the same era at Te Papa museum, but there were no images to confirm if this was the same company. I feel a quest coming on…!
I’ve already cut the Academy Pattern out in some stash and will reveal all soon…
In the meantime, which ones are your faves, and what shall I make next!?
pattern scissors cloth 
They all look really nice, but my favorite is the 1966 Vogue Paris Original 1918 Givenchy. I'm really looking forward to see yours when you make it!
LikeLike
I've been trying to find out some information on the Academy patterns as well, and haven't found anything at all so far! Would love to hear about it if you do learn anything – for a pattern company that seems to have been so prolific around NZ in the 1940's and 50's, they're surprisingly mysterious!
LikeLike
Hello. I am interested to know you wish to learn about the history of Academy Pattern Co. Ltd. The company still exists but does not make patterns any more. I am the current Managing Director and know more of its past life than anybody. It began life as the NZ Cutters Academy, started by my grandfather before the 2nd World War. This academy was bought from my grandfather (James Mungall) by my father Andrew Mungall and became the Academy Pattern Co.Ltd in 1946, The two major shareholders were my father Andrew and his brother Allen. The company produced patterns till 1960 when due to overseas competition it became uneconomical to continue. and production ceased. The company still owns the building built in 1947 used as the pattern factory. James Rex Mungall, Managing Director
LikeLike
That academy pattern looks really interesting. I'm actually having problems imagining what it would look like sewn up.st seems like a lot of emphasis on the bast though.
LikeLike
Love all your new patterns and I especially love the Academy one! It's so much fun to find out about more obscure pattern companies!
LikeLike
Love them all, but 1918 is crying out for yellow linen…just like the design image.
LikeLike
All lovely. My favourite is the Molyneux dress.
LikeLike
My favorite is the Vogue Paris Original 2627 Molyneux, Misses Dress. On a whim I went over to Etsy to see if they had a copy. Can you believe they had an uncut copy in my size. I had to get it. I can't wait to see your version.
LikeLike
Yes, you need something new! (How's that for enabling?) I'd love to see that 1918 Givenchy pattern made up.
LikeLike
My favorite is the 1970's Vogue Paris Original 2627 Molyneux. The cute little label is a sweet bonus.
LikeLike
I do love looking at vintage patterns… my fave of your current batch is the very first one… those 70s patterns sure do it for me, sigh.
Can't wait to see what comes of the made-in-Auckland pattern, both in terms of history and a really neat dress! 🙂
LikeLike
I like them all but the Givenchy is fantastic, one of my all-time favorite designers, so simple and chic. I can see that as a spring outfit in wool crepe.
LikeLike
I had forgotten about those labels. I was so proud to sew those into my clothes, the last step before wearing.
LikeLike
I love all of them but especially the first one – the Molyneux one! Can't wait to see your finished versions.
LikeLike
Beautiful patterns! I particularly love the Givenchy dress and jacket – tres chic!
LikeLike
Great finds. I also love the Givenchy pattern.
LikeLike
Great haul there, yay! The vogue 2627 is pretty fab, but the academy takes it for me, mainly cos I'm very curious to see how it turns out, the pattern looks sweet
LikeLike
I love vintage pattern shopping – quite addictive. You've done well, some great patterns. Looking forward to seeing them made up.
LikeLike
Um, can I please get a little mad at you? After reading your post this morning I set off on a little Academy info seeking mission too. A mission which inevitably led me to Trade Me, which led me to buy 32, yes 32 vintage dress patterns including a few Academy ones(bulk lots). I hold you solely responsible for my lack of restraint. Plus, to rub salt in the wounds, I am absolutely none the wiser about the history of the brand. I really son appreciate being led astray like this…
LikeLike
When you buy vintage patterns, do you buy whatever size is available, or try and get one that is close(ish) to your measurements? How much redrafting do you have to do? Any tips?
LikeLike
Love the 2627 Molyneux.
LikeLike
Nice patterns – that Givenchy is adorable.
LikeLike
Gail – I was thinking orange!
Kathi G – That was meant to be!
liza jane – Thanks! Even more enabling is the 30% discount at Global Fabrics this week!
Brumby – Lol! 32 patterns, I'm jealous!!
Liz B – I usually buy within a couple of sizes and grade them up or down. I haven't had any serious fitting issues, except one pattern and looking back I am sure the wrong size was in the envelope as it was huge!
LikeLike
I vote for the givenchy! So Charade/Audrey Hepburn.
The academy is super, too.
LikeLike
Ohhh Vintage patterns are a guilty pleasure for me. Not because they are of bad taste, in the contrary. I simply feel guilty of buying patterns I might never sew. But, they are often such an amazing source of information on techniques very few people use any more. I have to stay away Ebay not to buy more. Molineux patterns are wonderful, always feminine and urban. I often feel they were designed for working women. Your new acquisitions are great !!
LikeLike
I am captivated by the Molyneux dress and would love to make it from something in my stash. I can't find the pattern except for $55 which is beyond my budget. Is there any chance you could post a picture of the part of the pattern envelope where you see a drawing of the back and front? I might try to make the pattern myself. The cutting on the cross and the front pleats combined with the simplicity of the bodice look stunning. Are their pockets in the pleats? My daughter sends me your blog as I am still not a regular net user! Thanks for all your ideas I still need convincing about polyester! Tiz
LikeLike
I've done a bit of research on the NZ Cutters' Academy and the Academy Pattern Company Ltd. Both companies were connected with the Mungall family. An Archives NZ listing (R23580183) states that there was a civil action by Australian Home Journal Company Ltd of Sydney verses James Mungall carrying on business at Auckland as New Zealand Cutters Academy Shopkeeper. That was in 1932. There are also advertisements able to be viewed in Papers Past for the Cutters Academy patterns in 1935 http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/cgi-bin/paperspast?a=d&d=CHP19350821.2.106.3 and 1937 http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/cgi-bin/paperspast?a=d&d=UHWR19370416.2.11.2
Allan Mungall and his brother Ray Mungall established the Academy Pattern Company Ltd and registered the company with the Companies office on 3 April 1946. The company is still registered as trading. https://www.business.govt.nz/companies/app/ui/pages/companies/search?mode=standard&type=entities&q=45438
The Alexander Turnbull Library has a photograph album with photographs from the company. http://tapuhi.natlib.govt.nz/cgi-bin/spydus/NAV/GLOBAL/OPHDR/1/352882
I'm assuming James and Allan and Ray must have been related. James looks to have died in 1955. (See Archives NZ Probate listing http://www.archway.archives.govt.nz/ViewFullItem.do?code=9373880) Allan was also known as Allen in some official doucuments and died in 1965 (see Probate information http://www.archway.archives.govt.nz/ViewFullItem.do?code=14771583). I couldn't find any more information on Ray.
LikeLike
Continuing on from your research, I have a fortnight ago interviewed the last directors of the company and have pages of notes to type up. Some of the background information given by donors of objects to Auckland War Memorial Museum and Alexander Turnbull is incorrect. There is little existing of the early company records outside of Archives NZ, with the only holdings in private possession being some early photographs of the 1949 factory and the colour fashion catalogues 1959 – 1962.
LikeLike
Very interesting how mis-information can flourish. No such person as Ray Mungall ever existed. He was certainly no brother of Allen Mungall (my uncle). See my post in reply to a question further up the posts. This will give you a true history of the company. James Rex Mungall
LikeLike
Have you sewn the Molyneux vogue 2627 yet?
LikeLike
I haven’t yet, but now you have drawn it to my attention I feel that this winter may be the time!
LikeLike
I love that pattern, I hope that I will see a picture of what you will sew. I am spending so much time looking at these older patterns. I am waiting to find it in Size 16: bust 38 and a reasonable (very reasonable) price.
LikeLike