How do you prefer to press side bust darts – do you press them upwards, or do you press them down?
I was taught to press them upwards, the theory being they were less noticeable from the outside. I don’t usually sew commercial patterns, but I notice the vintage ones I’ve sewn recently all indicate to press the darts down in their instructions, and I can’t think of any reason for doing it this way – any suggestions?
I’ve taken a couple of photos of my current project with one pressed up and one pressed down. Which one looks better – left or right?
I prefer the one on the left which is slightly less obvious – in comparison, the one on the right looks like it needs a better press!
Now guess which one is which…..
The one on the left is pressed upwards, and the one on the right is pressed downwards. From eye level you look into the ‘ditch’ of the dart pressed down, whereas the ‘ditch’ is partially obscured by fabric when it is pressed up and so is less noticeable.
I admit the difference isn’t exactly major in this thin cotton poplin, photographed in low contrast lighting, and from a near horizontal viewpoint. If the fabric was thicker, in contrasting lighting, and viewed from eye level the difference would be even more noticeable!
So my ‘experiment’ proves my theory, and I will stick to pressing my bust darts upwards for aesthetic reasons!
If you want to make the switch be aware that your pattern will be drafted for the dart to press downwards. It is simple to alter – just add a piece of paper to the seam allowance of your pattern around the base of your dart, fold the dart as if it is sewn and pressed upwards, and trim the excess paper off the side seam. You need to do this so you don’t end up with mismatching raw edges like this:
So now you know my angle on this! Which way do you prefer – up or down? And more importantly – why?